ONLINE DISCUSSIONS
Vortex has partnered with the Climbing Business Journal to create and publish educational content for routesetters
Take a look….
With its introduction to the Olympics in 2020, the sport of climbing has entered the public consciousness like never before. Every day, new climbers are walking into gyms, often with expectations that have been shaped by what they’ve seen on television. More and more routesetters are registering for USAC clinics with the dream of one day setting Nationals. Youth climbing teams are growing. Holds seen on World Cup boulders are making appearances on commercial V2s.
If you go to 10 different gyms, you might get 10 different answers. Between variations in wall heights, hold sizes and route density, the workload associated with setting a single boulder can be hard to pin down, and then there’s forerunning and quality expectations to consider. Is there a right answer?
Does anyone really know what grades are? If you think the answer to that question is yes, you may want to reconsider. Many routesetting experts would argue the answer is no, and will always be no.
A fun side hustle, or a career? Lots of climbers want to become routesetters, but once they get a peek behind that curtain, the work might not seem as glamorous as they originally thought. Is routesetting a sustainable career? Why are so many experienced routesetters leaving the industry? What can we do to keep the profession going (and growing)?
Every routesetter has heard it: “Wow, you must get super strong climbing all the time for your job!” The reality, however, is that many routesetters working full-time struggle to push their own personal climbing limits, and some may even see a decrease in their capacity. Overuse injuries and cumulative fatigue present significant challenges to anyone pursuing a career as a routesetter. Over time, these consequences can leave us feeling like we’ve sold our passion and can lead to burnout and attrition.
How does routesetting for events differ from everyday commercial setting? How do events affect gym rotation and logistics? Every gym and event is different and will require something unique. No matter what your event is, we have some take-home information to help. Join us to discuss how to approach event routesetting from an organizational standpoint.
With the climbing industry continuing to expand, it’s increasingly important to design a routesetting program that meets your gym’s unique needs and keeps you competitive. We will discuss ways to attract and retain talent while being mindful of budgets, as well as structuring a program in a way that reflects the priorities of your community and brand.
Join Vortex as we talk Routesetting with Holly Chen on the Impact Driver Podcast